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NW Portland

Nob Hill

Portland's most walkable upscale corridor, bordered by Forest Park to the west and the Pearl to the east. The Victorians stayed. The boutiques arrived later.

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History

Nob Hill — named after San Francisco's Nob Hill, in the way that 19th-century American developers borrowed prestigious names liberally — developed as Portland's premier residential neighborhood in the 1880s and 1890s. The city's merchant class built large Italianate and Queen Anne Victorian homes on NW 19th, 20th, 21st, and 23rd. The streetcar ran along 23rd, and the commercial strip that grew along it has been in continuous operation ever since.

The nickname "Trendy-Third" emerged in the 1990s when the avenue filled with national boutiques and upscale independent shops. Long-term residents used it with mild irony — the neighborhood was already established and didn't need marketing. The name stuck anyway.

Food & Drink

Paley's Place, one of Portland's most enduring fine dining institutions, has been serving Pacific Northwest cuisine on NW 21st since 1995. Lovely's Fifty Fifty does wood-fired pizza with an ice cream counter in the same space. Ken's Artisan Bakery — among the best bakeries in the Pacific Northwest — is worth showing up early for the morning pastries. Gado Gado has put Portland Indonesian food on the national map.

What to See

Walking NW 23rd from Burnside to Thurman is about a mile and passes more independently owned shops than almost any comparable stretch in Portland. The residential side streets — particularly NW 19th through 22nd in the blocks north of Burnside — have some of the finest Victorian architecture in the city. The Thurman Street trailhead at the north end of NW 23rd is the main access point for Forest Park's lower trail network.

Curious Facts

  • Portland's original streetcar lines ran along NW 23rd, and the curb cuts and track depressions are still visible in parts of the pavement if you know where to look.
  • Several of the large Victorian mansions on NW 19th and 20th were converted to apartments in the early 20th century, which is why they survived — they were too useful to demolish, and the owners lacked the capital to replace them.